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2000 Road Journal

2000 FROM JAPAN
Photo Gallery of Japan


I hope you had a lovely Easter Holiday. I am writing from a wonderful (free) cyber café in Tokyo, before heading to Narita to fly home. It is raining, so not much point of gallivanting through Tokyo this morning, as the cameras will only get wet, and the pictures will be not exactly coffee-table book material.

This little whirlwind tour of Japan has been both exciting and insightful. I visited about 10 cities, including 5 World Heritage sites in the last 5 days. All this is made possible due to the excellent, precise, clean and efficient railway system. You can make a connection from train to train in less than 2 minutes, just like in India (there it is possible because your connecting train might be 5 hours late)

Just as the cliché goes, Japan is full of contrasts. Yesterday, for example I awoke in a Ryokan in Nikko National Park. Left the inn and started hiking at 5:30 AM through the wonderful forests, with birds chirping, the wonderful noise of mountain stream and small cascades, to discover the wonderful set of temples hidden in the forest. The sounds of nature and harmony everywhere, splendid before the hordes of tourists arrive at about 9:00 AM. I usually find myself leaving when the crowds get there, thus have been able to be captured by the magic places have to offer.

Yesterday evening, however I was captured by another sort of magic, the one of the evening crowds of fun-seekers in Tokyo’s Ginza and Shinjuku night districts. The milling about and the thousands of people combine with the incredible assortment of lights, noises and smells make for a mind-numbing yet exhilarating experience, not soon to be forgotten. Last night I also got to stay in capsule hotel, just to add to the cultural experience and save some dough. I heard about this sort of accommodation, as to how horrible, etc, etc. In my own personal experience however it was not necessarily so. The staff was super-nice and helpful (as everywhere here), the hotel featured a common bathing area, with sauna and Jacuzzi. Every thing is provided, towels, happy coat and toiletries. After a quite ritualistic wash, you proceed to the assigned capsule, a box measuring 1m x 2m with a small mattress, a TV, radio and reading light. For me it felt like when we were building a little house with my brother when we were children - over a all it was a good experience and very inexpensive by Japanese standards.

The most moving experience of this trip however was to watch Japanese schoolchildren deliver origami cranes (the symbol of peace) to the Peace Memorial in Hiroshima. It was quite a moving experience that brought tears to my eyes, at the same tine as it made me realize that there is still quite a bit of hope for us as a species. I also had a lot of fun with the kids afterwards as they asked for my signature in the school books and we played around. A couple of 12 year old girls, who I had met on the bus, kept coming after me, we ran into each other in the museum several times, and it was like meeting old friends, time and time again, with the customary laughs and silly giggles. It was a welcome relief from the horrendous displays and photographs from the atomic destruction. It is amazing what we are capable of doing to each other in the name of superiority and other such ridiculous concepts.

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NOVEMBER 2000 FROM YEMEN
Photo Gallery of Yemen

With just 2 days left in this country, I thought I share a few impressions and moments with you, this time in short form:

Yesterday I was taking pictures of Taiz, two boys approached me and offered me flowers they had just picked on the side of the road, that complimented with a wonderful smile and nothing else...

I will not forget the face of the barefoot 13 year-old boy cum tour guide, who showed me old Ibb, when he got a pair of new shoes...

Our armed escort, consisting of two young soldiers from Sana’a to Marib where absolutely hilarious as we kept on making assorted animal noises throughout the journey...

The old Bedouin who guided us to Shibam through the desolate desert in the East, close to Saudi Arabia, was following the stars for directions, most impressive. Incidentally a brand new 4-lane highway was adjacent about 5 Km. After the dust kept eating my cameras, and I realized the existence of the highway, we wisely chose this route and cut about 5 hours of the journey.

The city of Zebid (UNESCO World Heritage Site), where Pier Paolo Pasolini filmed parts of the Arabian Nights, is sinking in filth and garbage to a point I have never seen before, every where you look there are plastic bags, containers and open sewers, great for the children of this town, who happily play in this muck. The good news is that most cities in Yemen have cleaned up their act and most of the places a re now free of garbage.

So far I encountered only one nasty person in Yemen. He was a loud and obnoxious German tourist. Some people should just stay home.

The places I seen, heard and smelled are magical, something out of the Middle Ages. The place is unspoiled in terms of people. With no exceptions the Yemeni hospitality has been outstanding and I wonder how I will ever repay all the kindness I have received.

If any of you is thinking of coming here, may I recommend Bestway Tours and Safaris who made this wondrous journey possible at an instant's notice. Thank you Mahmood!

My friends in Vancouver will at least have the opportunity to see the pictures in the show I intend to make. So far I have taken over 2,500 images in 10 days. This place is a photographers dream and a traveler’s paradise.

The food has been very good, I have so far mostly eaten on little local restaurants by the roadside and some of them are also quite a spectacle in terms of the activity and the running waiters, cooks and helpers, a constant hub hub of activity which adds to the general atmosphere...

This has been one of the more memorable trips in my life, aside from the Himalayas & Burma & Pakistan, which still remain the old favourites.


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All photographs & materials © Peter Langer